Contextile – By A Tread

1. Gertruda Gilyté, Lithuania / Germany. I Love you Gertruda. 2021 – 2026. Hand-knitted scarves, acrylic yarn. Hand knitting. Durational performance. Textile installation, Photo Contextile

Contextile – By A Tread, report by Lala de Dios

Under the theme “By a Thread”, Contextile, the biennial of contemporary textile art which can be seen in Guimarães until 29 November, proposes a reflection on the current times – marked by environmental, social and economic crises – and calls on art as a tool for resistance, care and the construction of new futures. The “thread” here is a symbol of the fragility of the world, but also of its capacity for regeneration and reinvention. As Janis Jefferies rightly points out in the biennial catalogue “Yet there is promise amid these challenges – an opportunity to reimagine our futures, renew and adapt our institutions, and craft new narratives about who we are and what we value. Artists working in diverse media stand at the forefront of this cultural resistance from different perspectives.”

Having played a central role in Contextile’s artistic programme throughout its eight editions, the International Exhibition once again broke participation records in its open call – 1,604 artists and 2,036 works entered into the competition, from 80 countries, marking the highest number of entries ever. The jury, a multidisciplinary team composed of Lala de Dios, Lewis Biggs, Magali Junet, Magda Soboń, Susana Pires, and Cláudia Melo, selected for the exhibition 54 artworks by 51 artists, representing 27 countries.

The invited artist is Chinese global citizen, artist and thinker Ai Weiwei who besides Fabrication, an exhibition at Centro Internacional das Artes José de Guimarães is also showing Camouflage and Nets, two installations in public spaces both referring to textiles currently in use in Ukraine to protect people from drones proving once more that art can find beauty and meaning everywhere and in everything.

This year there is no guest country exhibition, but rather the exhibition *A Change in the Weather? Material Storytelling in an Age of Uncertainty*. Curated by Janis Jefferies, the exhibition features works by Jakkai Siributr, Thailand; Movana Chen, Hong Kong; Simon Callery, United Kingdom; Taloi Havini, Papua New Guinea; and Teresa Lanceta, Spain, which are spread across various locations in the city, as are the results of the work by the artists in residence – a feature that, since its first edition, has set this biennial apart from others.

Continuing the initiative of previous editions, the biennial once again has invited Art Schools with textile-related disciplines to engage and challenge their students to express critical thought through their artistic practice. New to this edition is the Growing House project by the Fiber Media Lab, involving students from the China Academy of Art in Hangzhou curated by Assadour Markarov.

There’s more, but it’s difficult to mention everything there is to see and enjoy in just a few lines. Contextile has, for many years now, established itself as an international benchmark in the field of textile art, always keeping a close eye on contemporary art. Add to this the fact that it is held in the beautiful historic city of Guimarães, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it is clear that this is an unmissable event for artists, curators, students and, indeed, anyone with an interest in textile art.

Lala De Dios, 13 October 2026

Pinelopi Triantafyllou, Switzerland. Oneness, 2024. Reclaimed textiles, cotton fabrics, thread, yarn stuffing, found materials. Participants interventions, stitching, writing, patching. Installation, soft sculpture; photo Contextile
Jiyong Kim, South Korea. Narratives of the Marginalized, 2026. Recycled banners, tarpaulin, various threads, water-soluble stabilizer. Sewing; photo Contextile
Katarzyna Szczytowska, Poland. Dreams and Meanings: Hyperfocuses, 2025-2026. Raw cotton fabric, DMC cotton threads. Hand embroidery, 10 pieces; photo Contextile
Joanna Rogers, Canada. War Belts for Margot Venton and Rachel Carson, 2025 – 2026. Plant dyed mercerized cotton threads, plant dyed kimono cotton, painted canvas. Hand dyeing, inkle weaving, knotting. 2 pieces; photo Contextile
Jem Woolidge, Canada. Devotional Portraits of Strangers I and II, 2019. Embroidery thread (DMC and second hand), muslin. Hand embroidery, hand quilting. 2 pieces; photo Contetile
Gvantsa Jishkariani, Georgia / Spain. Politics of Altered Realities, 2025. Modified vintage tapestries, feathers. Embroidery. 1 piece; photo Contextile
Jenny Steele, United Kingdom. Gorton Rush Cart, 2024. Willow and crocus leaves, rushes, ex industrial yarn, ribbons, wood, antique Rochdale rush cart, oak. Heritage back strap weaving; photo Contextile
Zina Katz, Argentina. Hilografía, 2024 – 2025. Fabrics, threads. Stitching. 4 pieces; photo Contextile
Mariana Bacelar, Portugal. Delícia, 2025 – 2026. Embroidered on fabric using cotton threads. 1 piece; photo Contextile
Maninelkaos, Belgium. Fragile Geometry, 2026. Textile embroidery, woven fabric, thread. Handmade embroidery. Installation composed of three triangular structures with 9 embroideries; photo Contextile
12. Halley Zien, United States of America. All the Children, All the Guilt, 2024. Oil, collage (magazine clippings), fabric (repurposed clothing). Hand-sewing; photo Contextile
13. First Prize and Acquisition Award. Daniel Fernández Carrillo, Mexico. Paisaje revelado, 2024. Reclaimed polyethylene tarp, intervention through physical abrasion processes that alter and reveal the weave / structure of the material. 1 piece; photo Contextile
14. Jeana Eva Klein, United States of America. Poolside and Escape, 2025. Plastic beads, monofilament and acrylic yarn. Hand woven; photo Contextile
16. Nobuko Tsuruta, United States of America. Hope?, 2023. Indigo-dyed cotton, mud-dyed linen, interwoven belts of mixed fibers. Improvisational handweaving; photo Contextile
17.Ana María Zamora, Colombia. Ofrenda al bosque / Offering to the Forest, 2026. Yanchama (Amazon plant fiber), cotton, hand-spun and plant-dyed wool, golden lamella, fique fiber, natural silk, seeds and stones. Hand embroidery, felt, traditional gold-leaf gilding. 1 piece; photo Contextile
18. Jakkai Siributr, Thailand. There’s No Place, 2019 – ongoing. Collaborative, geographically mobile “call-and-response” installation, machine sewn and hand embroidered with acrylic thread, dimension variable. Courtesy of the artist via Flowers Gallery, London & Hong-Kong. ©Antonio Parente. Exhibition A Change in the Weather? Material Story Telling in an Age of Uncertainty, curator Janis Jefferies, UK; photo Contextile
19.Second Prize. Salima Hakim, Indonesia. Week 1: Road to Homo sapiens?, 2021 – 2026. Calico and canvas fabric, synthetic thread, Dacron, cardboard. Hand-stitched, sewn. 20 pieces, 1 central piece, 8 journal replicas, 4 books, 7 artefact replicas.
20.Third Prize. Raul Martínez, United States of America. Parabellum (Map#3, 9mm, Guatemala). Ongoing series. 9mm bullet casings collected in Guatemala. Hand-woven rug; photo Contextile
20.Third Prize. Raul Martínez, United States of America. Parabellum (Map#3, 9mm, Guatemala). Ongoing series. 9mm bullet casings collected in Guatemala. Hand-woven rug; photo Contextile
21.Lara Salous, Palestine. For What Can Still Be Woven?. Wool. Contextile artistic residencies 2026 ; photo Contextile